Discovering Historic Pittsburgh

Kittanning Photo Tour

2012-02-24T03:47:00.000-05:00

Kittanning is the county seat and largest city of Armstrong County, Pennsylvania. It is located along the Allegheny River, approximately 44 miles from Pittsburgh. Originally a Native American settlement, the Battle of Kittanning was fought here during the French and Indian war, in 1756. The population of Kittanning peaked in 1930, at 7,808 residents. Kittanning has the character of a small town. It offers a nice business district and a solid collection of Antebellum and Victorian architecture. An 1854 map shows the village densely built up with homes, public buildings, and churches. Some of these buildings are still standing, and I have tried to photograph as many as possible.

Aliquippa, Pennsylvania (Photo Tour)

2012-02-06T10:50:00.001-05:00

Aliquippa, Pennsylvania was named after Queen Alliquippa, the leader of the Seneca tribe of Native Americans in the 18th century. The Jones and Laughlin Steel Company constructed a mill in Aliquippa in 1905, which brought prosperity to the town in the pre-WWII era. By the time of the depression, in 1930, the population was 27,000. The mill closed in the 1980s. This, along with suburbanization, brought an end to the prosperity of the town. Today, the population stands at only 9,438. Most of the buildings downtown are abandoned.

Donations for Roxian Theater Renovation

2012-01-14T19:42:00.001-05:00

Donate to Roxian Theater Renovation

The Roxian Theater is a historic circa 1928 theater in downtown McKees Rocks. The McKees Rocks CDC is working to redevelop this property as a mid-size concert venue. So far, $750,000 has been raised towards the renovation of the building. Work has been started, but more money is needed. Any amount of money you can donate, at the link above, will help preserve the landmark building and revitalize the McKees Rocks community. It will also show support to the cause. Thank you!

Preservation in Steubenville

2012-01-04T22:57:00.002-05:00

I emailed the Mayor of Steubenville, Ohio a few weeks ago, and I asked questions about the city of Steubenville's stance on historic preservation, and if there were currently any projects underway.

Good news. I received an email today from the Urban Projects Director of the City of Steubenville. He reports that the city has an active historic preservation program. There are at least two significant historic buildings that are in the process of being renovated: The Grand Theater and The Washington Square Apartments. It was gratifying to learn that Steubenville cares about its historic buildings and is making efforts to save them, especially in light of the eminent domain and urban renewal disasters happening in nearby Wheeling.

Steubenville has two historic districts, a Historic Landmarks Commission, and restored 1780s Fort Steuben. It also has an impressive skyline and architectural pedigree for a city of less than 20,000 residents. Steubenville is located only about half an hour west of Pittsburgh.

You can read a 1986 historic building survey of Steubenville here.

Washington Square Apartments, Steubenville, OH

Welcome to www.JonathonDenson.com

2011-12-18T03:42:00.001-05:00

"Discovering Historic Pittsburgh" has a new domain name! You can now visit the blog at:

www.JonathonDenson.com

Like "Discovering Historic Pittsburgh" on Facebook

2011-12-18T03:36:00.005-05:00

Like the "Discovering Historic Pittsburgh" Facebook page for updates and discussions regarding my blog and historic preservation in Pittsburgh.

http://www.facebook.com/historicpittsburgh

Preservation Opportunities: Spring Hill

2011-12-15T02:34:00.004-05:00

Spring Hill is a historic hill-top neighborhood located on the North Side of the city of Pittsburgh. While there are some beautiful Victorian homes in this neighborhood, many have seen better days. Here are a few abandoned buildings in Spring Hill which could be excellent historic preservation opportunities.

32 Woessner St., Spring Hill (Pittsburgh). An abandoned, tax delinquent property. It was purchased by a Las Vegas real estate company in 2007, shortly before the housing crisis. Exterior is in good condition, but interior needs major work.

Historic church at 1620 Rhine St., Spring Hill (Pittsburgh). Built in 1902 by the German United Evangelical Independent Congregation. The church was sold off by its few remaining members in 2009, for $35,000. The roof had a leak at that time, but the interior and structure were very intact. In only two years since the sale, because the owner has failed to do any kind of maintenance, the water penetration caused the roof to fall in. Many stained glass windows are still intact.

Click here to see the Spring Hill Church in 2008, before the roof failure.

1620 Rhine St., Spring Hill (Pittsburgh).

Stained glass windows at 1620 Rhine St.

1846 Damas St., Spring Hill. This abandoned, tax-delinquent property could be a charming home.

1810 Walz St., Spring Hill. This property is for sale through Dunn Realty.

1810 Walz St. in a photograph from the early 1900s.

1810 Walz St., Spring Hill.

1810 Walz St., Spring Hill. View of rear of property.

Uniontown, PA

2011-12-08T23:57:00.001-05:00

Here are a few pictures I took during a visit to Uniontown, PA. Uniontown is a small city located about an hour south of Pittsburgh. The downtown area has seen substantial revitalization, including restored storefronts, new businesses, and a beautifully renovated historic theater. It is clear that the city leaders of Uniontown are on the right track and have made great strides. They have increased the attractiveness of the urban core of the city, thereby making the city a more vibrant and appealing place to be.

View of downtown Uniontown, PA.

State Theater, downtown Uniontown, PA

Fayette County Court House, Uniontown, PA

The Richardsonian style Fayette County Court House has a "Bridge of Sighs" connecting the court building to the jail, much like Allegheny County Court House.

Downtown Uniontown, PA

Wheeling, WV: Eminent Domain and Historic Building Demolition Craze

2011-11-21T15:21:00.006-05:00

"City leaders are wrong to lead with an erasure, trying to rub out former greatness and pawn it off as a victory for today." - Jerome Poynton, resident of East Wheeling.

City leaders in Wheeling are making efforts to demolish a significant number of historic buildings in the East Wheeling Historic District. Earlier this year, I documented the large section of the East Wheeling neighborhood that city leaders seek to acquire by eminent domain. The intention is to bulldoze and replace the once elegant Civil War-era Victorian architecture with a ball park. There is currently a lawsuit filed by home owners in the neighborhood who wish to keep their homes, but the city still intends to raze these and the other homes in the area. You can see the pictures I took of the area the mayor wants to completely tear down here: Large Section of East Wheeling Historic District to be Demolished.

A large block of Civil War-era Victorian housing to be demolished in the East Wheeling Historic District.

Read more about the eminent domain case in East Wheeling here: http://www.news-register.net/page/content.detail/id/561873/Judge-Recht-Consolidates-East-Wheeling-cases.html?nav=515
In addition to the neighborhood clearance in East Wheeling, a large section of the 1100 block of Main and Market in Center Wheeling will also be demolished. Read more here: http://www.news-register.net/page/content.detail/id/561842/Bond-ordinance-for-1100-block-irks-preservationists.html?nav=510

The former Fort Henry Club, a 19th century landmark in downtown Wheeling, is also endangered. The club recently closed and the building is in the hands of the Episcopal Church next door, who seek to demolish the building if not sold within six months. Read more here: http://www.theintelligencer.net/page/content.detail/id/562666/Former-Fort-Henry-Club-Has-6-Months.html

See the real estate listing for the Fort Henry Club here.

Demolition has also started at a Wheeling landmark, the Mount de Chantal, built in 1865: http://www.news-register.net/page/content.detail/id/561536/Demolition-Begins-At-Mount-de-Chantal.html?nav=515

Historic Mount de Chantal, Wheeling, WV (now being demolished)

McKeesport: "Long-Abandoned Ruins of the Dreams You Left Behind"

2011-11-17T17:41:00.007-05:00

McKeesport was once a bustling, working class city, with a population of over 50,000 people. It was the second largest city in Allegheny County, behind Pittsburgh. Downtown McKeesport was full of people during the day, from office workers and steel-workers to shoppers. McKeesport boasted several fine department stores, movie palaces, restaurants, and nightlife. The city was hit hard by surburbanization in the 1960s, when Eastland Mall opened and retail began trickling out. In 1976, several downtown landmarks and city blocks burned to the ground. By the 1980s, the collapse of the steel industry put the final nail in McKeesport's coffin. The city today is a hollow shell of what it once was. The population stands at 19,731, a far cry from its glory days. There are abandoned buildings all around, many with historic character and significance. Many more have fallen down and burned over the decades, leaving great empty parcels of urban prairie. Still, there are some gorgeous buildings left, like some of the ones I have photographed below.

McKeesport skyline, from Port Vue.

View of Downtown McKeesport.

Victorian overlooking Downtown McKeesport from Port Vue.

Abandoned Victorian Mansion at 626 Market Street, in downtown McKeesport. It has been deteriorating for years. The building is currently owned by the Redevelopment Authority of McKeesport.

Once grand homes on Shaw Avenue.

A pair of abandoned Victorians on Shaw Avenue.

Downtown McKeesport

City Hall and YMCA

Fifth Avenue

"Masonic Temple"

A McKeesport landmark, built 1866.

The faded "Penn-McKee Hotel" was once McKeesport's grand hotel. It is now vacant and shuttered.

Very old house

Abandoned church

Abandoned: Stowe Township

2011-11-09T13:12:00.002-05:00

An abandoned circa 1910s apartment building at 938 Woodward Avenue, Stowe Township:

The taxes are paid and the owner seems to have kept the building somewhat maintained in spite of the fact that no one is living in it. It's not in bad condition, and would be an easy rehab.

Below: Circa 1906 row-house at 817 10th Street, Stowe Township:

Abandoned and tax-delinquent for several years, this property is eligible for the Allegheny County Vacant Property Recovery Program. It's not in bad condition, and would be an easy rehab. See my link on how to purchase abandoned properties for more information.

Even the Hill District has its Charms

2011-11-05T05:20:00.001-04:00

A beautiful Victorian on Webster Avenue in the Upper Hill District ("Sugar Top") neighborhood of Pittsburgh.

From the McKees Rocks Bridge

2011-11-04T13:38:00.001-04:00

Here are some views of the Slopes, and old industrial sites in The Bottoms, from the McKees Rocks Bridge. Fall, 2011.

The "Reinvention" of Pittsburgh is Nothing New

2011-10-30T13:40:00.003-04:00

Proof that the stories about Pittsburgh "reinventing" itself are nothing new -- here is a page from a 1950s book called "Great Cities of the World." All of this talk of a "renaissance" came before Pittsburgh lost half its peak population.

Pittsburgh, the iron and steel colossus of the world, stands astride three great rivers-- the Ohio, the Allegheny, and the Monongahela. Coal and this mighty water transportation system were responsible for the growth and the far-reaching influence of Pittsburgh's vast industrial domain. Scarcely a decade ago they were also responsible for devastating floods that periodically spilled their unleashed fury on the city, and for the sooty smoke that continually shrouded the area in a dense black pall. Today, as Pittsburgh nears its 200th anniversary, the city is still a Titan of industry, but it has undergone a remarkable transformation. With smoke-filtering devices, the innovation of smokeless fuels and stringent laws controlling smoke density, the sun again shines on Pittsburgh. Floods, one of the city's greatest obstacles to progress, are now regulated by a mammoth network of dams and reservoirs. Its decaying physical structure of dingy outmoded commercial buildings, its tangle of inadequate streets and highways, its seedy and deteriorating Lower Hill tenements have experienced an extravagant renaissance. A shining and refurbished Pittsburgh points with pride to the tall clean lines of its stainless steel and aluminum skyscrapers, its broad sweep of superhighways and expressways and its many sociological, civic and economic improvements. A beautiful park, with the 36-acre Gateway Center as a backdrop, now fills the apex of the Golden Triangle. Here Fort Pitt, the tiny nucleus of the modern city, withstood Indian attacks during the Pontiac War. A small brick blockhouse, the only remnant of prerevolutionary times, is preserved within the park. Along Bigelow Boulevard and in the area of Schenley Park are found many of the city's renowned cultural and educational institutions including the University of Pittsburgh with its 42-story Cathedral of Learning, Carnegie Institute and the Mellon Institute of Industrial Research.

Abandoned: Jefferson School in Wheeling, WV

2011-10-24T10:30:00.004-04:00

Jefferson School, at 1401 McColloch Street, is visible from the highway as you enter the once proud city of Wheeling. It is a haunted relic from the Victorian age, with all the faded grandeur and lost prominence of the city around it. Like Norma Desmond, it does not seem to be aware that it is forgotten. For more information about the disinvested East Wheeling neighborhood, click here.

McKeesport

2011-10-22T04:55:00.004-04:00

I came across a fascinating article that details the history of McKeesport. As I'm sure many of you know, McKeesport used to be a vibrant, bustling blue collar city, and the heart of the Mon Valley. This article details the factors that led to McKeesport's decline -- the opening of Eastland Mall in the 1960s, a massive fire that destroyed several downtown blocks and historic landmarks in 1976, and finally the loss of steel industry jobs in the 1980s. McKeesport wasn't able to recover from these blows. As late as 1976, McKeesport still had major retail and department stores, movie palaces, and daytime shoppers and office crowds, much like downtown Pittsburgh today.

You can read the article here: "Remembering the Tube City"

Here you can read about the famous fire that gutted downtown McKeesport in 1976 (and was a major event in the city's decline): "The Famous Fire"

Gothic Pittsburgh -- Halloween Photo Tour

2011-10-20T19:13:00.003-04:00

Here are some of my favorite photographs. I've collected those which capture the dark side of Pittsburgh, and its gothic atmosphere. I've presented them in black and white for your Halloween viewing pleasure.

The communities represented in the tour include: The Bluff, East Liberty, Brownsville, Natrona, West End, Manchester, Braddock, Beltzhoover, Homestead, Spring Garden, McKees Rocks, and Chateau.

Click here to view these pictures larger

Demolished: 121 University Place, Oakland

2011-10-15T09:59:00.005-04:00

Demolished: 121 University Place, Oakland, Pittsburgh
121 University Place, an early 20th century mid-rise, beaux arts style building was recently demolished. In spite of the fact that the building was located in a city historic district, the City of Pittsburgh Historic Review Commission decided to allow its demolition for new student housing.

Another piece of Oakland's history and urban fabric falls to the wrecking ball, due to an incompetent Historic Review Commission.

Homestead

2011-10-11T03:27:00.018-04:00

Homestead is a gritty old steel town on the Monongahela River. Located adjacent to the Waterfront shopping district, a modern big box store and strip mall development, money and revitalization haven't spilled over into the old town. Homestead still looks as bombed-out as it must have been in the 1980s, when the steel industry collapsed. A lack of jobs isn't the problem now -- with Pittsburgh's unemployment lower than most places these days -- but nobody seems to want to live here (or Braddock, McKees Rocks, etc.). With so many affordable urban options in Pittsburgh, even urban pioneers tend to look elsewhere. But Homestead has a largely intact (if dilapidated) business district, a once-elegant residential section, and nice parks. There are a few signs of life -- cafes and vintage furniture shops have opened.

This photo tour only captures a few of the buildings. Homestead has many more, and is full of history and character.

Abandoned & Endangered: St. Peter and Paul School (East Liberty) & The Lamar Building (Oakland)

2011-10-08T09:42:00.012-04:00

Saint Peter and Paul School.
Location: Enright Court, East Liberty.

Lamar Building
Location: Near Fifth Ave. and Maurice St., Oakland.

Both buildings are abandoned, but beautiful, and located in trendy neighborhoods where apartment/loft conversions of historic buildings are commanding high rents.

The Jaw-dropping 2000 Block of Forbes Avenue, Pittsburgh (Bluff)

2011-09-29T09:09:00.006-04:00

Forbes Avenue Abandoned Buildings, Bluff & Uptown, PittsburghSomehow, this block of breathtaking, ravaged Victorian architecture symbolizes all of the faded glory and grandeur of the Steel City. All of Pittsburgh's 19th century vernacular architecture is represented here -- from the mansard-roofed Italianate row-house to the stone neighborhood church. The sad thing is that most of the houses on this block are utterly abandoned and waiting for the bulldozer. Recent investments in the Bluff neighborhood, which is home to Duquesne University and adjacent to downtown and Oakland, include the Console Energy Arena, various new apartment building proposals, and the conversion of the old Fifth Avenue School into upscale lofts. The following buildings should be on the list, too.

These photographs were taken in November, 2010, for my "Uptown & Bluff Photo Tour." Some of these buildings may have already been demolished since then.

If you feel you are upto the challenge of buying and renovating one of these historic gems, please see my "How to Purchase an Abandoned Property" page.

How to Purchase Abandoned Properties

2011-09-27T18:44:00.018-04:00

Above: An abandoned Victorian at 210 Talbot Avenue in Braddock.

Here's a scenario. You stumble across an absolutely stunning, albeit faded, Victorian that is basically your dream house (like the one pictured above). There's only one problem. It's not for sale, the owner is missing in action, you've checked the Allegheny County Assessment site and the owner hasn't paid taxes on the property in years, and the house appears to be completely abandoned and waiting to be demolished. You feel extremely sad that such a great piece of architecture and history has been left to rot and eventually be destroyed, when someone like you would cherish and spend your life restoring it. It drives you nuts that there is nothing you can do to save this property, and there are dozens more that you can think of around the city that are just like it.

There are so many abandoned properties in Pittsburgh, and many are demolished every year. A lot of these buildings are significant pieces of architecture. If you've found an abandoned building that you would like to save from the wrecking ball, there are a few things you can do:

Step 1: Try to contact the owner. You can usually find the current owner's name and address on the Allegheny County Assessment website. Express your interest in the property to the owner and see if you get a response. This often will not work, however, because the delinquent owner cannot be located, or the owner of the property has passed away.

Step 2: The Allegheny County Vacant Property Recovery Program. In certain Allegheny County municipalities, vacant properties can be acquired through the Vacant Property Recovery Program. The property must be delinquent on taxes for at least two years, and must be abandoned, to qualify. It generally costs at least $4,000 to purchase a property through this program, and can take longer than 120 days. The participating municipalities include: Braddock, Carnegie, Homestead, McKees Rocks, North Braddock, Pitcairn, Rankin, Wilkinsburg. Here is the application to apply for the program. But what if the property you are interested is not in one of these communities? You can still apply for the Vacant Property Recovery Program, and see what happens, or move on to step 3..

Step 3: Contact the City or Municipality. Contact the solicitor for either municipality or the school district where the property is located. Explain to them that you want to buy a property that is vacant and is delinquent on back taxes. They may arrange for a Sheriff's Sale. There are some expenses involved. Houses aren't really put up for sheriff's sale unless a buyer is in place. In doing it this way, the property is most likely sold for the amount of back taxes plus the cost of the sale.

If you have experience acquiring an abandoned property, please leave a comment, share tips, and explain how you were able to do it. I would like to make this page a resource for buying abandoned properties. This is a learning experience for me, and probably most everyone who is reading this. If I got any facts or information wrong about purchasing abandoned properties, please correct me so I can get the information correct on this site. It is important to get the message out that these buildings can be saved, and that there are methods for doing so. Let's get all of the facts straight here so we can start saving our heritage.

P.S. I would be very pleased if someone with money stepped in and saved that ridiculously awesome house in Braddock.

Sewickley Photo Tour

2011-09-23T01:03:00.003-04:00

Sewickley is a small town located near the Ohio River. It functions as an upscale suburb of Pittsburgh. The village contains a nice collection of restored Victorian and Edwardian era homes.

Click here to view these pictures larger

The "Old Stone Tavern" Photo Tour

2011-09-09T17:35:00.004-04:00

Old Stone Tavern, West End, PittsburghThe "Old Stone Tavern" is located in the West End neighborhood of Pittsburgh. It has a "1756" year listed on its cornerstone, which would make it older than the Fort Pitt Blockhouse, and the oldest surviving building in Pittsburgh, if the date is correct. It would also make the tavern the only survivor from French settlement days. The tavern is a very mysterious building and its history is fascinating. It narrowly escaped demolition for a parking lot two years ago, when the city of Pittsburgh Historical Review Commission voted to declare it a historic landmark, thus saving it. However, it currently sits abandoned and neglected.

These photos are courtesy of Jesse Belfast, an architectural historian who was granted access to the interior of the building and took these remarkable pictures.

Music by John Barry, from the "Scarlet Letter" soundtrack.

West Park Business District (Stowe Township)

2011-09-06T06:04:00.001-04:00

West Park (Stowe Township): Broadway Business District

2011-08-31T03:43:00.009-04:00

Historic West Park, McKees Rocks & Stowe Township, Business DistrictWest Park is a streetcar suburb built up following the turn of the century, in response to the growing need for more housing in the vicinity of McKees Rocks. West Park possesses an intact circa 1910s-1920s business district and residential section. Many of the streets are paved with the same yellow brick that typifies the construction of housing and commercial buildings in the area. Housing is a mix of detached brick and frame dwellings, and row-houses, most of which have front porches.

I currently live in West Park, having purchased my house there in 2009, and it has been a pleasant neighborhood to call home. I recently nominated the West Park business district as a PHLF Historic District. Hopefully, we will soon be able to refer to West Park as the "West Park Historic District."

Click here for the video version of the Photo Tour.

Typical West Park homes.
Entering the business district..

Originally, the "Parkway Theatre."

Brownsville, PA

2011-08-20T09:48:00.005-04:00

Historic Brownsville, PAThe following pictures were taken on August 18th, 2011, and document the historic structures of Brownsville, PA.

Presston (Stowe Township)

2011-08-18T13:18:00.004-04:00

Historic Presston, Stowe Township & McKees RocksPresston is a small residential community in an industrial setting. It was originally the company town of Schoenville, constructed in 1899 as worker housing for employees of the Pressed Steel Car Company. Many of the residents of this community were immigrants, who were kept in constant debt by the company, which resulted in the famous 1909 McKees Rocks Strike. Eleven people died in the strike. Presston has a dramatic and fascinating history. The neighborhood is still mostly intact.

The Presston - McKees Rocks Pedestrian Bridge (closed and soon to be demolished)

Manchester Demolition List (Aug. 2011)

2011-08-17T17:18:00.006-04:00

The following buildings on Chateau St., in the Manchester Historic District, are slated for demolition. They are crumbling Victorian monuments to the 19th century, and the city's long decline.

Urban Prairie in Pittsburgh: A Photo Case Study

2011-08-16T09:55:00.009-04:00

Discovering Historic Pittsburgh: Urban Prairie

This is not a traditional photo tour. The theme here is "urban prairie" in the city, and the negative effects of demolition. How "urban prairie" comes about in city neighborhoods is extremely well-illustrated by this page on the BuiltStLouis site, one of the best historic urban architecture websites. This page is inspired by that.

The focus here, then, is the gradual erosion of a neighborhood, until the point that it no longer exists.

California-Kirkbride is a neighborhood located in the North Side of Pittsburgh. It was built primarily in the 1870s-1890s. The neighborhood is a National Register Historic District known as the "Old Allegheny Rows Historic District."

The neighborhood was nominated for historic status in 1984. The following paragraph comes from the description of the neighborhood that year:

"The neighborhood has endured a half century of decline and stagnation. The failure of the railroad industry combined with the neglect of Pittsburgh's Northside and the region's general loss of population have left the area largely intact, but depopulated. The location of a large new postal facility on the site of the old railyard, and reinvestment in some of the residences in the neighborhood, promise better things for the future of the district."

It will be hard to fathom, after you see the following pictures, that California-Kirkbride was "largely intact" merely 25 years ago. The neighborhood stood for 130 years, but it only took two decades to destroy it. California-Kirkbride is not the only neighborhood to go this way (see also Esplen, East Deutschtown, and the Bluff), but it dramatically illustrates the problem that insensitive demolition poses to the integrity of neighborhoods. California-Kirkbride exists as a case study of urban destruction.

When buildings are abandoned in the city, the most common train of thought seems to be, "tear them down." This is what happens to historic neighborhoods when demolition occurs. It may only seem like one building here or there, but one building becomes two buildings, and two becomes three, and so on, until it becomes hundreds.

When California-Kirkbride was listed as a National Register Historic District in 1984, there were 348 contributing historic structures. How many are standing now?

Above: The definition of urban prairie. A city block with no houses on it. The alleys and cobblestone streets are what's left as a reminder of the once intact and bustling neighborhood.

841 Suismon St.

2011-08-14T23:06:00.006-04:00

Abandoned: 841 Suismon St., Deutschtown, North Side, Pittsburgh
This house is located at 841 Suismon St. in Pittsburgh's Deutschtown neighborhood. It is located east of the highway, in the part of the neighborhood that has not yet been revitalized, yet it is still quite safe.

I fell in love with this house when I noticed it while driving through the neighborhood a few years ago. Earlier this year, I wrote to the owner, asking to buy it. It turns out that the house is now in the deceased owner's estate, which is controlled by the Sikov and Love law firm in Pittsburgh. They were interested in selling the house and had a realtor show me the property. Unfortunately, the house needs a complete rehab as there is interior water damage. It would be a major undertaking, yet the house is absolutely worth it. It's an architectural gem. Unfortunately, I was unable to afford the restoration so I did not buy it.

If you are interested in the house, I would urge you to enquire about 841 Suismon St. with the Sikov and Love law firm. I think we would all love to see this house saved.

North Side Mansions and Grand Homes Photo Tour

2011-08-12T07:25:00.002-04:00

Historic North Side Mansions, Pittsburgh

The North Side of Pittsburgh was once an independent city known as Allegheny City, and was in the 19th century among the largest in the United States. The city was home to many wealthy industrialists, who lived in great mansions in Allegheny West and Manchester (Allegheny City neighborhoods). This was the location of Pittsburgh's Millionaire's Row in the mid-19th century.

Marcia Davenport's excellent novel "The Valley of Decision" depicted class divide in 1870s Allegheny CIty. It was made into an Academy Award-nominated film in 1945, starring Greer Garson and Gregory Peck.

Many of the grand homes of Allegheny City's past have fallen to the wrecking ball, but some survive. This is my effort to trace the remains of the grand homes of Allegheny City's past, which inspired "The Valley of Decision."

Lawrenceville "Log House" Demolished

2011-08-09T03:54:00.004-04:00

Historic Lawrenceville Log House Demolished, Pittsburgh, PA

Sadly, the circa 1820s "Lawrenceville log house" was demolished in late July, 2011. It stood in the 100 block of 38th Street.

The house was constructed of logs and was believed to be the oldest surviving building in the Lawrenceville neighborhood of Pittsburgh. The logs were numbered and hopefully the building will be re-built.

Bittersweet Victory for Boyle Street

2011-08-07T18:50:00.004-04:00

If you have been following the Boyle Street saga, you know that the city of Pittsburgh had planned to demolish three historic homes on the Central North Side Street. Unfortunately, 1417 Boyle St. has already been demolished. However, I am happy to report that the CNNC (Central North Side Neighborhood Council) has successfully halted demolition on the homes at 1423 and 1413 Boyle St. This is wonderful news. The next step is to find these historic homes new owners who can renovate them.

If you are interested in getting more information about buying one of these homes, when they are put on the market, please contact Jim Lawrence of the CNNC:
james.r.lawrence@comcast.net

1423 Boyle St.

1413 Boyle St.

Western Penitentiary

2011-08-05T16:43:00.007-04:00

Historic Western Penitentiary, North Side, PittsburghHere is Western Penitentiary, located in the North Side of Pittsburgh, adjacent to the Ohio River. It opened in 1882. I wonder why this structure has not been designated a historic landmark?

Click here to view these pictures larger

Public Meeting to be Held Regarding Fate of Produce Terminal

2011-08-01T19:02:00.006-04:00

Historic Produce Terminal Demolition, Strip District, Pittsburgh
As many of you know, the Produce Terminal is a Pittsburgh historic landmark located in the Strip District, on Smallman Street. It is a very long, low building that resembles a city market, with bays open to the street. It is a unique building which contributes to the old market-place character of the Strip District.

There are plans to demolish one block of this building, between 16th and 17th St., for new development.

There will be a public meeting held at 2100 Smallman St. (on the 16th St. end of the building) on August 15th, 2011, at 6:00pm, to discuss concerns regarding the demolition. This is the place for the historic preservation community to make its voice heard in regard to preserving the whole structure.

Please see the official posting from the URA here: http://www.ura.org/pdfs/ProduceTerminalRenovations-NoticeOfPublicMeeting.pdf

Correction: A reader corrected me about the Produce Terminal's status as a "historic landmark." Currently, it has no designation as such. However, it can still be nominated, as it lies in a National Register eligible district.

Contact Me

2011-08-01T18:05:00.003-04:00

If you would like to contact me, my email address is: Beyondtheforest@gmail.com

If you have any information about potentially endangered historic buildings, please alert me!

I always enjoy hearing from readers of my blog with questions, comments, or other insights.

Thank you for visiting!

Strip District

2011-07-30T21:32:00.003-04:00

These are just a few highlights from the Strip District. The photographs were taken in September, 2009. It's interesting to note the changes that have occurred since then. I hope to get back to the Strip on a Saturday afternoon and take a new set, when things are really buzzing and the market is in full swing. It's a vibrant neighborhood.

Farewell to the Old Stone Church

2011-07-30T08:07:00.004-04:00

Historic Presbyterian Church Demolished, Esplen, PittsburghI am sad to report that the Old Stone Presbyterian Church in Esplen (West End) has been demolished.

Circa 1892. This was the last surviving historic landmark in Esplen.

Here is how the building looked when I photographed it in January, 2010:

As you may be able to imagine, I am not happy right now.

It was always my goal to nominate this building as a historic landmark with the city, when and if I became a city resident again. Now, it's too late. It's just an empty, hay-covered lot.

Boyle Street Update

2011-07-28T17:50:00.011-04:00

Streetscape before demolition
1417 Boyle St. before demolition
1417 Boyle St. after demolition.
Streetscape after demolition. What an improvement?

This is a follow-up to my recent coverage of the City of Pittsburgh's plans to demolish three historic homes on Boyle Street in the Central North Side.

As I was working on my upcoming Historic Mansions Photo Tour today, I decided to swing by Boyle St. and see if there was any activity.

1417 Boyle Street has been demolished. I have taken before and after pictures. I hope the city is proud of this. Apparently, no historic district in the city of Pittsburgh is complete without holes punched into the 19th century streetscape.

Two or three similar row-houses on Boyle St., just across the street from where the city is demolishing houses, have been completely restored (they were in worse shape when they were put on the market last year). It's a shame that the city did not have the foresight to market the properties on its demolition list to preservation-minded buyers. After all, the Central North Side is rapidly gentrifying.

UPDATE (Aug. 7, 2011): 1413 and 1423 Boyle St. have been saved from demolition, but need new owners!

Rest in Peace: Large Section of East Wheeling Historic District Soon to be Demolished

2011-07-19T15:01:00.007-04:00

Photo Tour of Large Section of East Wheeling Historic District to be DemolishedThe city of Wheeling, West Virginia presents a dilemma for historic preservationists. On one hand, the city has perhaps the best and most intact collection of mid-19th century Victorian architecture in the region. On the other hand, a great deal of that architecture is falling apart, due to neglect and abandonment (the city's population has fallen to less than half of its peak level, when it was the largest city in the state). Wheeling was once a very elegant and wealthy city, and a major center for commerce. Much of that elegance is still intact, but it is slowly rotting and being bulldozed away.

The Mayor of Wheeling has proposed to demolish a large section of East Wheeling (a National Historic District) for a baseball field. This neighborhood, adjacent to downtown Wheeling, contains a large collection of Victorians, many of which were built before the Civil War.

I have taken care to photograph every building in the section, bordered by 15th Street, 16th Street, Wood St., and McColloch St., which may soon be only a memory, of a time when Wheeling was a city of pride, elegance, and optimism, as reflected in its buildings.

To see pictures of the abandoned Jefferson School in East Wheeling, click here.

Erie, Pennsylvania

2011-07-06T17:49:00.002-04:00

Erie was more urban and historic than I expected. The downtown reminded me of Flint, Michigan, although was more historic (and it certainly doesn't have the crime Flint has). The great thing about Erie is that all of the core city neighborhoods seem easily walkable to downtown. It's flat and on a grid, and Lake Erie and its beaches are right there. There is a fabulous historic district on W. 6th Street, which I did not have time to photograph. All I'm going to say about it is "Millionaire's Row." This is condensed down from 133 photos to what I feel is essential. Look for the rest on my blog when I get around to posting them (I feel lazy).

I definitely recommend a trip to Erie. The beaches were beautiful, the water was just warm enough for swimming (barely, though), and the downtown and its neighborhoods are nice to walk around and explore. The city has a welcoming, comfortable vibe.

Downtown Lofts

One of many mansions in the 6th Street Historic District

The "Cashier's House," circa 1830s.

Early and mid-19th century homes are scattered around downtown.

"Pufferbelly Restaurant" in downtown Erie. Great food and atmosphere.

Circa 1862 Mansion in downtown Erie

Demolition List

2011-06-21T15:09:00.025-04:00

Keeping up with the City of Pittsburgh's demolition postings, and documenting the historically significant buildings with photographs, is important because it brings awareness to a problem our city is facing: "demolition by neglect."

When buildings become abandoned or vacated, and unpaid taxes build up, many properties become deteriorated and are eventually torn down by the city. Some of these buildings are historically significant, and in neighborhoods such as Spring Garden or Esplen, which do not get a lot of attention by preservationists in spite of their historic building stock.

Nothing is being done to market these properties to potential new owners who could fix them up. Also, there is very little understanding about what can be done to acquire abandoned buildings from negligent or deceased owners. It is my intention to take photographs of the historically significant vacant buildings, in hope of calling attention to this problem, and helping buildings find new owners, before our city becomes a large urban prairie.

On this page will be my effort to document, through my photography, historic buildings in the region that are on demolition lists or that are threatened with demolition. I will also keep readers updated on the demolition status of buildings, and document those that have been torn down.

Wheeling Demolition Updates: A Sad Future for Wheeling (Nov. 21, 2011)

Demolished: 121 University Place, Oakland (October, 2011)

Manchester Demolition List (August, 2011)

Lawrenceville "Log House" Demolished (August 9, 2011)

Update: Bittersweet Victory for Boyle Street (Aug. 7, 2011)

Farewell to the Old Stone Church (July 30, 2011)

Boyle Street (Central North Side) Demolition Update (July 28, 2011)

City of Wheeling: Section of East Wheeling Historic District Soon to be Demolished (July 19, 2011)

City of Pittsburgh: June, 2011 Demolition List

Demolition in the Bluff neighborhood (June 16, 2011)

Rest in Peace: City of Pittsburgh Demolition List (June, 2011)

2011-06-20T05:34:00.008-04:00

Historic Building Demolition List, PittsburghDemolition postings (dated June 2nd) are available on the City of Pittsburgh website, and the writer of this blog has deemed at least nine of the homes cited for demolition to be historically significant (a few of them are beyond repair). These homes are located in Pittsburgh's North Side, in the Spring Garden and Central North Side neighborhoods. The homes on Boyle Street are particularly distressing, as this is a happening, gentrifying neighborhood, where homes just across the street are being restored.

Boyle Street Demolition Update (July 28, 2011)

The June, 2011 City of Pittsburgh demolition list includes the following properties (Rest in Peace):

1425 Spring Garden Ave. (Spring Garden neighborhood)

1114 Voskamp (Spring Garden neighborhood)

1140 Voskamp (Spring Garden neighborhood)

1144 Voskamp (Spring Garden neighborhood)

1148 Voskamp (Spring Garden neighborhood)

1215 Voskamp (Spring Garden neighborhood)

1413 Boyle (Central North Side)

1417 Boyle (Central North Side)

1423 Boyle (Central North Side)

View of unbroken row of houses on Boyle, soon to be filled with gaps:

As always, it is a shame to see the urban fabric and density of our city, as well as its history, compromised by demolitions. I thought that the continued revitalization of the Central North Side would spell the end of historic demolitions in the neighborhood. I'm sorry to be wrong.

West End Park

2011-06-16T21:31:00.002-04:00

West End Park, Pittsburgh (Photo Tour)

Demolition in Uptown/ Bluff area.

2011-06-16T18:37:00.008-04:00

A Victorian era (1860s-1880s) row-house was demolished in the Bluff neighborhood by Mercy Hospital. It was near the intersection of Forbes and Pride St. As of today, the house is about half-demolished. It is sad to see the continued erosion of the historic character of our city. Houses like this one are, to me, the finest examples of Pittsburgh "vernacular," and yet they are disappearing rapidly.

It's amazing that houses like these would sell for $300,000 restored in the South Side Flats or Central North Side, but in the Bluff they are knocked down.

Braddock Photo Tour

2011-05-18T23:13:00.001-04:00

Historic Braddock, PA Photo TourMy original title for this tour was to be "The Grand Homes of Braddock," but then I decided that some of the modest mill homes were interesting, too, and of course so was the remaining commercial architecture and the Carnegie Library. In fact, there are so many notable buildings in Braddock that the town defies its reputation as a cheaply-built neighborhood of "substandard" worker housing. Surprises abound in Braddock and one would be foolish to generalize what this town is about -- whether it relates to its architecture or long history of decline.

Natrona: The Pennsalt Historic District (Photo Tour)

2011-04-11T23:59:00.002-04:00

Photo Tour: Pennsalt Historic District, Natrona, Harrison Township, Pittsburgh

A photo tour of the Pennsalt Historic District, located in Natrona, Pennsylvania.

The brooding grey sky complements the crumbling, soot-covered village of Natrona. The Pennsalt Historic District is what remains of the original Pennsalt company town. The oldest houses were built in 1850. Natrona, located about twenty miles northeast of Pittsburgh, is one of the most sorely neglected historic districts in the region, and maybe the country.

West Deutschtown Historic District Photo Tour (North Side)

2011-03-28T21:13:00.004-04:00

Deutschtown is a beautiful urban neighborhood within walking distance to downtown Pittsburgh. Most of the buildings in the neighborhood date to the mid-19th century, when the area was populated by many German immigrants. In the 1960s, the neighborhood was divided by a highway into two sections, "East" Deutschtown, east of the highway, and "West" Deutschtown, pictured here. West Deutschtown has been painstakingly restored and saved by the efforts of generations of dedicated preservationists. East Deutschtown is a different story, and is documented in a separate photo tour.

McKees Rocks Photo Tour

2011-03-05T00:02:00.002-05:00

Historic McKees Rocks Photo TourMcKees Rocks is a historic industrial suburb and railroad town located about three miles west of downtown Pittsburgh. Like many rust belt towns, McKees Rocks peaked in population decades ago and struggles to find a foothold in a culture that seems to despise antique urban environments, in favor of vinyl village sprawl.

Victorian Photo Tour, Wheeling, WV

2011-02-15T18:42:00.003-05:00

Victorian Photo Tour, Historic WheelingWheeling, West Virginia has a wealth of pre-Civil War, Victorian, and Italianate architecture. I have tried to do justice to the beauty and elegance of this city, which has a disproportionate amount of substantial architecture for its small size. Many of the buildings photographed here date from the mid 19th century. The oldest buildings date from the 1820s-1830s.

To see pictures of the endangered East Wheeling Historic District, click here.

Click here to see pictures of the abandoned Jefferson School in East Wheeling.

Favorite Houses in Pittsburgh

2011-01-30T21:32:00.011-05:00

Abandoned & Endangered Buildings

2011-01-10T13:46:00.038-05:00

Abandoned buildings are endangered buildings. Many significant buildings in the city are "demolished by neglect," meaning their owners fail to maintain them, or market the buildings to new owners who will, until it is too late. Not all endangered buildings are abandoned, however. Many buildings are in danger of being demolished simply because they are old. Historic buildings are sometimes seen as barriers to progress by people who wish to see them destroyed for new development. The lure of "out with the old, in with the new" is alive and well in this disposable age we live in.

I will continue to share pictures of newly discovered abandoned and endangered buildings in the Pittsburgh area. I will also try to research and share the building's story, and what chances the building has for surviving or being re-used in the future. Abandoned buildings should not be considered blight. They should be considered opportunities, for preservation and new development. Other cities should be so lucky to have our gorgeous existing building stock. We are only limited by our imaginations! To learn how to buy an abandoned property, click here.

1425 Brownsville Rd., Carrick (Pittsburgh)
This Victorian mansion in Pittsburgh's Carrick neighborhood is available to buy for only $99,000. It needs some TLC, but is in liveable condition. This building was recently designated a historic landmark by the City of Pittsburgh, preventing a property developer from demolishing it for a parking lot. The fate of this building still depends on finding an owner who will maintain it. See the real estate listing for this property here.

1425 Brownsville Rd., Carrick (Pittsburgh). Photo courtesy of HowardHanna.com

1620 Rhine St., Spring Hill (Pittsburgh)

"Demolition by neglect" would be an apt description of the scenario which faces this historic church, circa 1902, in Spring Hill. The current owner purchased the property in 2009 for $35,000 from the last few remaining members of the German United Evangelical Independent Congregation. The roof had a leak at that time, but the interior and structure were very intact. In only two years since the sale, because the owner failed to do any kind of maintenance, the water penetration caused the roof to fall in. Many stained glass windows are still intact. Click here to see what the interior of the church looked like in 2008.

1620 Rhine St., Spring Hill, Pittsburgh

Centre Avenue Mansions, North Oakland
The residential block between N. Craig and N. Dithridge, facing Centre Avenue. Demolition was planned for Chelsea Condo development, however status of this project is unclear. Pictured below is one of the homes on this block, 4504 Centre Ave.

4504 Centre Avenue, Pittsburgh

841 Suismon St., North Side
This circa 1868 home in the East Deutschtown neighborhood needs complete restoration. Please contact the Sikov and Love law firm for more information on this property, which needs a loving new owner and is available for purchase.

841 Suismon St., Pittsburgh

East Wheeling Historic District, Wheeling, WV
A large section of the East Wheeling Historic District is threatened with eminent domain and demolition. Click here for more information and pictures of the buildings to be razed.

Section of East Wheeling Historic District to be razed.

Fort Henry Club, Wheeling, WV
A 19th century landmark in downtown Wheeling. The club recently closed and the building is in the hands of the Episcopal Church next door, who seek to demolish the building if not sold within six months (as of 12/2011). Read more here.

Vintage post card showing Fort Henry Club, Wheeling, WV

1810 Walz St., Spring Hill (Pittsburgh)
This historic apartment building is for sale. It is listed by Dunn Realty.

1810 Walz St., Pittsburgh

1846 Damas St., Spring Hill (Pittsburgh)
This abandoned, tax-delinquent property could be a charming home.

1846 Damas St., Pittsburgh

32 Woessner St., Spring Hill (Pittsburgh)
An abandoned, tax delinquent property. It was purchased by a Las Vegas real estate company in 2007, shortly before the housing crisis. Exterior is in good condition, but interior needs major work.

32 Woessner St., Pittsburgh

Boyle Street houses, North Side
Discovering Historic Pittsburgh was instrumental in bringing about awareness of the proposed demolitions of three historic 19th century homes in the Central North Side on Boyle St., two of which were saved from the wrecking ball by CNNC. If you are interested in purchasing one of these homes to restore, please contact Jim Lawrence of the CNNC: james.r.lawrence@comcast.net

1423 Boyle St., North Side

1413 Boyle St., North Side

Abandoned Victorians, McKeesport, PA
A pair of proud, crumbling Victorian mansions still stand near the corner of Shaw and Lincoln in McKeesport. Will someone restore these fading symbols of McKeesport's glory days before they are torn down?

626 Market Street, McKeesport, PA
A once grand Victorian mansion stands at 626 Market Street in McKeesport. It is owned by the Redevelopment Authority of McKeesport.

Penn-McKee Hotel, McKeesport, PA
The Penn-McKee Hotel was once McKeesport's leading hotel. It is now vacant. It stands near Fifth and Strawberry in downtown McKeesport.

Row-house, Stowe Township, PA
This is an abandoned circa 1906 row-house, located at 817 10th Street, in Stowe Township. The owner is delinquent in taxes for several years. This property is eligible for the Allegheny County Vacant Property Recovery Program. It's not in bad condition, and would be an easy rehab. It does, however, have the dreaded basement bathroom.

Apartment Building, Stowe Township, PA
This is a vacant and deteriorating circa 1910s apartment building located at 938 Woodward Avenue (corner of Woodward and 11th) in Stowe Township. It appears to be in decent condition and would be an easy rehab. The owner is current on taxes and perhaps could be persuaded to sell the building.

Jefferson School, Wheeling, WV
This former school is now abandoned. It rises above the highway from the disinvested East Wheeling neighborhood. Address: 1401 McColloch St., Wheeling, WV.

Former Municipal Building, Homestead
Former Homestead Municipal Building, circa 1905. Vacant since 1987. Located at the corner of 9th and Amity St.

Lamar Building, Oakland
The stately old Lamar Building stands near the intersection of Fifth Avenue and Maurice Street. New residential development plans may call for this building to be demolished, but hopefully it can be preserved. It seems ideal for a loft/apartment conversion.

Saint Peter and Paul School, East Liberty
The remains of the former Saint Peter and Paul School of East Liberty stands just off of Enright Court, proud and dignified even as it crumbles into dust. With the continued revitalization of the East Liberty neighborhood, the future of this beautiful building might not be hopeless.

The 2000 block of Forbes Avenue, Pittsburgh (Bluff)
Somehow, this block of breathtaking, ravaged Victorian architecture symbolizes all of the faded glory and grandeur of the Steel City. All of Pittsburgh's 19th century vernacular architecture is represented here -- from the mansard-roofed Italianate row-house to the stone neighborhood church. The saddest thing is that most of the houses on this block are utterly abandoned and waiting for the bulldozer. Recent investments in the Bluff neighborhood, which is home to Duquesne University and adjacent to downtown and Oakland, have been the Console Energy Arena, several apartment buildings, and the conversion of the old Fifth Avenue School into upscale lofts. These great buildings should be next on the list.

210 Talbot Avenue, Braddock
This faded Victorian is abandoned and has been tax delinquent for years, making it eligible for the Allegheny County Vacant Property Recovery Program. Be the one to restore this jewel in the rough!

1817 Fifth Avenue is a Victorian home located in the Bluff neighborhood of Pittsburgh. Abandoned, like much of the neighborhood, it awaits an uncertain future. The Bluff is quickly becoming the next urban prairie in Pittsburgh. Hopefully, this great building can survive.

The Old Stone Tavern, located at the intersection of Woodville Avenue and Greentree Rd. in the West End, is the second oldest building still standing in Pittsburgh. It dates from the 18th century and only the Fort Pitt Blockhouse is older. The Old Stone Tavern was made a city historic landmark recently, saving it from demolition. If there was any justice in the world, it would not be sitting abandoned. It would be a cherished and prized piece of history.

The Odd Fellows Hall, at the corner of Steuben and Wabash St. in West End Village, was built during the Civil War, in 1865, and is a fantastic piece of urban architecture. Why is this building abandoned?

This Colonial / Georgian style home is located at the corner of Climax and Curtin St., in the Allentown/ Beltzhoover section of Pittsburgh. It probably dates from the early 19th century or late 18th century. Notice the hand-cut field stone and tall chimney.

This four-story Victorian office building is located at the corner of Penn Avenue and 32nd Street in the Strip District. It is abandoned, but sits in a prime location awaiting potential adaptive re-use. Older buildings developed into condos and upscale apartments have been successful in this thriving urban/industrial neighborhood.

This handsome, six-story office building is located near the corner of 1st Avenue and Market Street, in the Wharf Historic District of Downtown Pittsburgh. Although abandoned, it would make an ideal apartment building, student housing, offices, condo development, or boutique hotel. Downtown has very few abandoned buildings left for development, and this is full of historic character.

The "Wentz Hotel" is a 19th century Victorian hotel located at the corner of Evergreen and John St. in Millvale. It does not appear to be currently in use. It is a beautiful example of a historic rooming house.

Bluff & Uptown Photo Tour

2010-11-25T19:28:00.006-05:00

Historic Bluff & Uptown Photo Tour, PittsburghThe atmosphere of the Bluff, also known as Uptown, is eerie, gothic, and haunted. I thought it fitting to photograph the neighborhood on a suitably gloomy late fall day. One would assume that the Bluff's prime location on a main corridor between Downtown and Oakland would have ensured its gentrification long ago. This has not been the case, for reasons that are mystifying at best. The Bluff has seen it all -- failed urban renewal, mass bulldozing, blight, crime, suburban flight -- but it's still here (for the time being). The neighborhood hangs in a delicate balance. It is whispered that many of these historic buildings will not survive to see the neighborhood's next chapter. One needs only to examine the fragile and deteriorating condition of most of the (breathtaking) Victorian architecture to understand that it is not appreciated by the waves of modernism. To those who cite Pittsburgh as an example of urban progress in the rust belt, the Bluff is a step back down to earth. There is endless work to be done, especially for preservationists.

Click here to view these pictures larger

Character, Identity, History, and Soul

2010-11-15T08:22:00.004-05:00

I needed to find an affordable place to live that possessed character, identity, history, and soul. That is why I chose McKees Rocks. That is why I chose Pittsburgh. People who fail to appreciate those qualities are generally the same people who do not appreciate the city, and may be the reason why those things are so few and far between in the world we live in today.

The people who left Pittsburgh over the last half century were not just running away from the city. They were running away from the blue collar roots it represented, the social stigma, the coal and the steel. They were tying to run away from themselves. And so the city was left to rot, and this is what is left -- ghostly industrial sites, abandoned Victorian buildings, decayed neighborhoods. The gracefully forsaken and neglected city represents more than a collection of ruins. It is everything that has ever been loved and left to die, adored then abandoned, cherished then forgotten. It is, more importantly, a reflection of the the fickle nature, and decline, of America. Perhaps that is why many see Pittsburgh as depressing, rather than as the beautiful symbol of a more glorious era.

What represents the America of today? Walmart, the McMansion, the SUV, Jersey Shore? Take your pick. I'll take what's left of Pittsburgh.

Pittsburgh's "Renaissance" and the Price of Urban Renewal

2010-11-06T03:10:00.005-04:00

Like almost all American cities, Pittsburgh has seen too many of its historic buildings demolished in the name of "urban renewal," which could be translated to mean "urban removal" since it generally involves mass demolition of dense urban spaces in favor of suburban-like parking lots and green space. Pittsburgh was home to the country's first large-scale "urban renewal" project. In the early 1950s, hundreds of historic structures, some over one hundred years-old even then, were demolished in order to make way for what is now Point Park. A whole stretch of Penn Avenue was demolished where the generic aluminum and glass of Gateway Center now stands. Wabash Terminal, one of the most grand examples of Beaux Arts "City Beautiful" architecture was razed. So was Exposition Hall, and countless historic street-level commercial buildings, hotels, and row-houses -- all for what? Point Park is generally empty today. There is a fountain, and there are impressive views, but the urban density and historic integrity of a city neighborhood are gone.

During the 1950s, Pittsburgh also lost its original City Hall on Smithfield Street, one of the most beautiful buildings in the city. The Old Post Office followed in 1966.

Downtown Pittsburgh retains much of its historic character due to the large number of existing structures dating from the early 20th century. However, very little remains of downtown Pittsburgh from its boom in the early to mid 19th century and the Victorian era. Larger, significant buildings, such as the Allegheny County Courthouse, may have been spared the wrecking ball, but countless smaller buildings from Pittsburgh's early days, such as brick rowhouses and small commercial buildings, are gone. These buildings contributed to the city's street-level business and activity, and gave the city a density and walkability not unlike some older European cities. Existing buildings from this era are largely vacant and unrestored. One may see the occasional row house or 1850s wrought iron facade on a commercial building standing on Wood Street, Liberty Avenue, Fifth Avenue, and Penn Avenue, as well as some in the wharf area and in back streets and alleys throughout the city. One might be surprised to learn that there were once houses, and whole residential communities, in downtown Pittsburgh, where only fragments remain today.

Historic preservation is essential to a city like Pittsburgh because beautiful things are meant to be created, not destroyed. The historic buildings of Pittsburgh are beautiful and irreplaceable. Thus, they cry out to be saved -- to people who have eyes which can recognize the romantic history of Pittsburgh, and the beauty in that. The Pittsburgh of today is both a testament to the glory of historic buildings, in a city of so many beautifully restored landmarks -- and a testament to what can be lost when greed, corruption, and oversight pave parking lots over history.

The following video documents some of Pittsburgh's lost buildings. They are the ghosts of Pittsburgh's romantic, historic past. We can't visit them now. We can only be haunted by the everlasting effects of "progress" that deemed these buildings disposable. The next time you walk down Smithfield Street, remember the Old Post Office and City Hall. All we have in their place is a parking garage and a small black building that looks like a shoebox.

Manchester & Allegheny West Historic Districts

2010-11-02T17:00:00.006-04:00

Photo Tour: Manchester and Allegheny West Historic Districts, North Side, PittsburghManchester and Allegheny West are located on the North Side of Pittsburgh and are historic districts. The architecture is among the city's most impressive. Victorians and urban row-homes abound, many built prior to 1872, as indicated by old maps. The elegant homes of Manchester and Allegheny West once belonged to Pittsburgh's elite, but the neighborhoods fell on hard times after the turn of the century, when the automobile facilitated the move of the city's wealthy to further-out suburbs. Prior to the turn of the century, many of Pittsburgh's most affluent citizens and wealthy industrialists lived on the North Side (then Allegheny City). This wealth is demonstrated in the remarkable architecture that still exists in the neighborhoods today. In spite of a century's worth of failed urban renewal, a highway that decimated a large section of the neighborhood, white flight, changing fortunes that favored sprawl to suburban areas and the east end, blight, demolition, and crime, Manchester still exists, and much of its historic fabric remains both intact and beautifully restored. Allegheny West has been gentrified.

West End Photo Tour

2010-10-28T19:15:00.003-04:00

Historic West End Photo Tour, PittsburghThe West End is located less than a mile west of downtown Pittsburgh, yet it possesses a feeling of rural isolation, possibly because it is surrounded on all sides by hills which obscure the neighborhood from the city around it. It is perhaps the most small town and country-like of all Pittsburgh city neighborhoods, with a quaint main street, and a quiet atmosphere. Perhaps that is also why it is one of the most overlooked Pittsburgh neighborhoods. The West End was originally the town of Temperanceville, founded in 1837, and annexed by the city of Pittsburgh in 1872. Some of the city's oldest housing stock can be found here. "The Old Stone Tavern," built in 1756, is believed to be the second oldest building in Pittsburgh after the Fort Pitt Blockhouse.

Downtown Pittsburgh: Wharf Historic District

2010-10-23T19:37:00.007-04:00

Photo Tour: Wharf Historic District, Downtown PittsburghHere is the Wharf Historic District, a part of downtown located near the Monongahela River. Some of the buildings in these photographs are among the city's oldest surviving structures. I took special care to photograph early residential structures and low-level buildings, as these are generally the oldest. Some may have survived the great fire of 1845. I find Pittsburgh's early colonial history fascinating, and it is fun to wonder just how old some of the surviving buildings are!

These photographs were taken in October, 2009.

McKees Rocks & Stowe: "The Bottoms" and Norwood neighborhoods

2010-10-23T06:35:00.005-04:00

Here is my photo tour of "The Bottoms" neighborhood of McKees Rocks, and the Norwood neighborhood of Stowe Township.

My fascination with historic working class and slum neighborhoods of the Pittsburgh region is pretty obvious in my photographs here. These are historic steel and railroad workers' homes, within sight of the gigantic old factories. You can kind of imagine how this neighborhood became so despised by generations of people who wanted to appear more affluent than they were. The neighborhood has no pretense, just honesty. And see how defiantly these buildings stand even as they crumble into history.

East Deutschtown

2010-10-23T05:44:00.008-04:00

Photo Tour: Historic East Deutschtown (North Side), PittsburghDeutschtown is a neighborhood on the North Side of Pittsburgh, located just across the river from the Strip District and downtown. It is one of the closest neighborhoods in proximity to downtown Pittsburgh. Deutschtown was built up largely in the 1850s and thus has some of the oldest surviving housing stock in the city, thus it is a very historic and special place worth preserving. Deutschtown was separated into two sections (west and east), and over 400 historic buildings destroyed, when it was divided by a highway in the 1960s. While West Deutschtown (west of the highway), parts of which are a city historic district, is rapidly gentrifying, and is becoming something of a hotspot for yuppies and renovations of its historic housing stock, East Deutschtown appears to be on the verge of collapse. While enough structures remain that East Deutschtown has the potential to be a viable neighborhood, it is perhaps unlikely that these homes will find enough preservation-minded owners to save the neighborhood. At the rate of demolition the neighborhood is currently experiencing, East Deutschtown may no longer exist, at least as an intact neighborhood, in ten or twenty years. Urban prairie is already rapidly eroding the neighborhood's 1850s cohesiveness.

Most of the following buildings were built prior to 1872, as indicated by a historic map I found of the neighborhood which shows it was very densely packed with houses.

Click here to view these pictures larger

Pittsburgh Photo Tours

2010-01-18T05:19:00.065-05:00

The following are my photographic tours of various historic Pittsburgh neighborhoods, buildings, and places. Many are within city limits, others are in outlying areas. I have tried to focus on neighborhoods and places which are under-appreciated and neglected, as well as those which have ample historic character and charm. Included with my photographs are writings intended to convey the identity and conditions of neighborhoods and, to the limit of my understanding, the role each plays in the city as a whole. The neighborhoods range from prosperous to seemingly impoverished, but each has a place in history and, hopefully, for the urban pioneer with a vision. Finally, Pittsburgh has many, many unique things worthy of being photographed. Not all of them will be documented here.

All photography by Jonathon Denson, unless otherwise noted.

City Center:

North Side (City):

West End (City):

River Towns:

Company Towns:

Streetcar Suburbs:

West Park (Stowe Township): Broadway Business District

Other:

Landmarks:

About the Site

2010-01-18T04:45:00.005-05:00

The mission of Discovering Historic Pittsburgh is to document, through the author's photography and writings, the historic architecture and neighborhoods of Pittsburgh. As the site evolves, it is hoped that many unique buildings and areas within and around the city, many underappreciated and some threatened with demolition, will be recognized for their historical significance and beauty. The author wishes to fight the forces of urban destruction. Disastrous urban renewal programs have decimated large portions of the city in the past, from the center of historic Allegheny City on Pittsburgh's North Side, to the leveling of the historic structures downtown for Gateway Center and Point Park in the 1950s. Pittsburgh also lost its Old City Hall and Post Office, both of which contributed more to the architectural interest of the city than anything which could be built today. It is hoped that by learning from the mistakes of previous generations, what remains of Pittsburgh's historic built environment can be preserved, and treasured.

Above: The Old Post Office was located at Fourth and Smithfield Street in

downtown Pittsburgh. It was built in the 1880s in the style of a Chateau. In

1966, it was demolished and replaced with a parking garage. Apparently,

there were no efforts to preserve this magnificent building.

My Row-House Project

2010-01-15T17:59:00.033-05:00

In the fall of 2009, as a present to myself for my 25th birthday, I bought my first house, a run-down circa 1907 row-house in the declined neighborhood of Stowe Township (an original streetcar suburb of Pittsburgh). Not everyone understood my desire to leave the affluent area of Shadyside, or to buy a house others deemed an eyesore. But I wanted a piece of history that I could call my own -- and I believed that $10,000 houses were not "too good to be true." I was right. The house, and the neighborhood, have been a source of pride and happiness for me. There are just so many rewards to working to bring something back -- a house, a neighborhood -- from the brink of despair. In the effort to do so, I feel I have earned the title "urban pioneer."

Exterior renovation complete, November, 2011

This page will attempt to document progress made in the gradual restoration of the house. So far, the following renovation projects have been completed: masonry repointed on side wall, new double-pane vinyl windows on second floor, roof re-coated, new entry door, new front porch and porch roof (including re-lined box gutters), transom opened above original front picture window, and other projects that I have forgotten about!

Porch before renovation

Exploring Pittsburgh's Esplen Neighborhood

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Esplen. Photographs taken 1/14/10.

Esplen is a small neighborhood located on Pittsburgh's West End. It is situated along Rt. 51 and overlooking the Ohio River. Since I moved to McKees Rocks, a neighborhood adjacent to Esplen, I have become fascinated with this mysterious little neighborhood. I have been able to find out very little about its history. Neither do I know when the decline of this neighborhood began. Needless to say, there are ample amounts of urban prairie, where I presume older buildings fell to the wrecking ball over the years, and deteriorated housing. In spite of this, Esplen has an odd charm. It presents a perfect opportunity for the young person to buy an affordable house and become, in essence, an urban pioneer. I only have one question: what became of the Esplen Citizens Council?

Might be the eeriest photograph I have ever taken.

What happened to the Esplen Citizens Council?

Odd little house -- I like it.

Urban Prairie.... An urban farm house?

The house third from right is one I almost bought.

Beautiful view.

An abandoned house.

Old Esplen School.

Love this row of houses.

Old Esplen School and bridge.

Victorian in Esplen.

Former residents share stories about living in Esplen:

"DJDRLSG6571" from city-data.com writes:
"Thank you so much for posting those great pics. Esplen was my old neighborhood. I lived there from 1956-64. I was told that Esplen was originally a railroad camp. There was a large Lithuanian population. When I lived there as a child, there were still many of them, although there were some Polish, Italian, Irish, Slovak, Slovenian.....you name it. However, I do not recall any Jewish or Black people, at least not in that part of Esplen. Esplen was never what you would call "well off". It was working class and working poor with large families. I recall several teens who dropped out of school. There were a few neighborhood grocery stores, churches, bars, a restaurant. Many people who grew up there in the 20's and 30's still lived in Esplen after they married, sometimes in the same house. There were some folks who really tried to take care of their aging homes. A great many of the homes were built between 1900-1920. The pictures you posted show my old house, which we rented for 4 years at $53 a month utilities not included. The house was not in good shape, but I do have happy family memories of living there. The stone church was a Presbyterian church, where we had Brownie & Girls Scout meetings. The light colored brick building was St Vincent de Paul RC School. In 1962, St Vincent de Paul Church was moved from the top of Tabor St to the school auditorium. The old church was torn down much later. I visited there in the late 1970's and I could still see the original cornerstone of the old church. Don't know if it's still there. There were a great many homes that were torn down. For example, on the same side of the street as the Presbyterian church was a whole row of homes that have been gone for years. Good family memories aside, neighbors could be difficult. A woman on our block was known for poisoning cats because they would wander into her yard. Boys got into trouble for obstructing the railroad tracks or starting fires on the hillside. When we moved in 1960 to another part of Esplen(further down West Carson St., across from Brunot's Island)we left some things in the old house to be picked up the next day. But the people who lived next door had broken into the house and cleaned everything out. A few years later one of their sons robbed a grocery store up the street. The last time I visited there was in the 1990's, and the decay was in full bloom. It's really an unsafe place. Sheraden Park was where we would go swimming in the summer. I recall people wishing they could live in Sheraden. The homes were attractive, the neighborhoods were nicer. It definitely seemed like a giant step up from Esplen. People seemed nicer too. Not as cranky and crabby as in Esplen. I hear Sheraden is no longer that way. Well, I've rambled enough. Let me thank you again for the wonderful pictures and the memories they evoked."

"Anne" from city-data.com writes:
"Thanks for the great pictures of the neighborhood that I grew up in! I lived in Esplen for 20 years from 1953- 1973. My parents ran The "Riverside Restaurant" that my grandmother built in the 1920's. It is still standing on West Carson Street (3337). It is a 2 story yellow brick building with the restaurant and bar on the first floor and 2 apartments on the second floor. The Giovengo Grocery Store was next door on the other side of a shared parking lot. On the other side of the Riverside was the Allegheny Cabinet Company - that made custom cabinetry. On the other side of the Allegheny Cabinent Company was the Lithiauan Club. On the other side of the Giovengo Grocery Store was Bealles Esso Gas Station. It was a great small local ethnic neighborhood with convenient access to downtown Pittsburgh. The PAT Buses ran back and forth quite frequently on West Carson Street. The local catholic grade school and church was on Tabor Street behind the Riverside, Grocery Store and Gas Station. On Tabor Street next to the Church was the convent where the nuns that taught at St Vincent Grade School lived. Sadly sometime in the late 1970's or early 1980's the convent was torn down. What a mistake that was. It was said to have an access tunnel to get to the underground railroad. The rather huge house was well over 100 years old. The little neighborhood of Esplen was the home of many mill workers that worked in nearby McKees Rocks and the Bottoms. Thanks again for posting the pictures - Anne Stebelsky Scully"

"Robert" from city-data.com writes:
"I grew up in Esplen, lived on Sagamore street, then on Oregon, and finally on Radcliffe. My grandparents lived south of the Pres. Church on Tabor street, where the Thadeus Stevens Elementary School Bus stop was. Across the street was the best neighborhood grocery store, called Wilsons, the Wilsons used to live on the other side of the Pres. Church, there were two houses in that cluster with what used to be the churches care takers house in the back, all gone now.

I had to walk to Langley H.S. every day, no buses, and my family only had one car, and for the 60's 70's driving your kid to school was unheard of.

My dad still lives on Radcliffe St. and I can't get him to move, he loves his old neighbors. The comments in one of the posts that everyone wanted to live in Sheridan is kinda funny, within the last 3 months 2 murders have occurred within blocks of Langley.

The old timers are still waiting for that ever elusive "soon as people figure out how convenient Esplen is, there will be all kind of development here DREAM, and our property values will sky rocket."

I go back now at least once a year, and feel safe, but know its not the Esplen I grew up in. Does anyone remember sneaking under the porch of the house the Catholic Nuns lived in, next to St. Vincents.

Man what memories,,,,,,its hell getting old.

Robert"